Can Tacos In This Texas Bordertown Be “Gentrified?”
El Paso, TX, the sun-soaked border town where the population is so overwhelmingly Mexican that your dog might bark with a Spanish accent, just found itself at the center of a tortilla-wrapped controversy. Texas Monthly Taco Editor, Jose R. Ralat, dropped its list of the top 10 taco joints in Texas a while back, and three El Paso spots made the cut. You’d think this would ignite citywide pride and celebratory rounds of horchata. But no. Instead, El Paso’s social media hive—led by FitFam’s keyboard warriors—has declared these tacos “gentrified.”
Hold up. Gentrified tacos? In El Paso? From Mexican-owned restaurants? Let’s unpack this one carnita at a time.
When “Gentrification” Loses Its Meaning
If we’re talking gentrification, the classic textbook example is a Starbucks popping up in a historic barrio, not Mexican chefs crafting heirloom tortillas. The restaurants named—Taconeta, Elemi, and Taqueria El Tigre—are owned, operated, and cooked for by actual Mexicans. These aren’t fusion tacos stuffed with kale and quinoa by some guy named Chad. These are honest-to-goodness tacos rooted in tradition, with a touch of creativity that doesn’t betray their essence. So, let me ask you this: How are tacos made by Mexican hands, in a city where over 80% of the population is Hispanic, considered gentrified? Are we now policing how Mexican food can evolve in the most Mexican city in the U.S.?
What’s the Real Beef Here?
Could it be that people see these spots as “too nice”? Taconeta has a trendy vibe, sure. Elemi focuses on heirloom corn, which might sound fancy to some but is deeply rooted in indigenous Mexican culinary traditions. Taqueria El Tigre? It’s a Juárez-born taquería that delivers some of the most authentic flavors you’ll find on either side of the border. Are we mistaking quality and attention to detail for gentrification simply because the tables aren’t covered in peeling linoleum?
This was one of the topics I had the chance to discuss as part of a panel with Jose R. Ralat, the Taco Editor at Texas Monthly. Yes, Texas has an actual Taco Editor—arguably the best job in the world. During our conversation, Jose echoed a sentiment that cuts through the noise: “There is a taco for everyone.” He was equally baffled by the gentrification claims, pointing out that his research isn’t just about eating tacos; it’s about talking to the owners and understanding what drives them to craft their unique creations. Jose made it clear that he loves El Paso and believes our taco scene deserves the spotlight. “El Paso is doing tacos right, no matter how you like them,” he said, explaining why he chose three local spots for the top 10 list. His picks weren’t random—they’re a testament to the city’s vibrant taco culture, built by passionate people who pour tradition and creativity into every bite. Jose fully recognizes that nostalgia often plays a huge factor in the way people eat. We are creatures of habit and when we find tacos that taste like grandma makes, or they feel like the tacos we had back in Juarez that one time years back, we stick to those tacos for life!
Let’s Taco Back the Narrative
The real beauty of El Paso’s taco scene is its diversity. From the guy slinging al pastor out of a food truck in Northeast to the chef pressing blue corn tortillas at a stylish downtown eatery, it’s all part of the same vibrant tapestry. Claiming tacos are “gentrified” because they’re served in a nicer setting diminishes the skill, creativity, and cultural pride of the people behind them.
So, instead of tearing down our local stars for daring to elevate tacos, how about we celebrate the fact that El Paso is finally getting recognition for what we’ve always known? Our tacos—whether served on paper plates or handmade pottery—are the real deal. Don't get me wrong, I am well aware that brown people can gentrify their own communities, but that doesn't mean that every place charging more for what they make is gentrifying a space. Especially if that place is built by community members who serve both the community and the culture, and Jose does his research to be sure that he isn't handing out top taco positions to businesses who are run by people who don't care about the culture.
And for the record, if anyone wants to invite me to one of these “gentrified” taco spots for further research, I’m available. Just don’t ask me to share my order.
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